Anna Wintour Costume Center
The Anna Wintour Costume Center is a wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art main building in New York City, United States. It houses the collection of the Costume Institute, a curatorial department of the museum focused on fashion and costume design. The center is named after Anna Wintour, the longtime editor-in-chief of Vogue, Chief Content Officer of Condé Nast, and chair of the museum's annual Met Gala since 1995. It was endowed by Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch. As of August 2017, the chief curator is Andrew Bolton.
The center was formally opened by the First Lady of the United States Michelle Obama on May 5, 2014. Guests included Sarah Jessica Parker, Diane Von Furstenberg, Tory Burch, Zac Posen, Ralph Lauren, and Donatella Versace.
History
In 1902, wealthy philanthropists Irene and Alice Lewisohn began to volunteer at the Henry Street Settlement House in New York, a community center that provided social services and healthcare to immigrant families. Alice, who acted in plays herself, began working as a drama teacher, while Irene devoted herself to dance productions. In 1914, the sisters bought a lot on the corner of Grand and Pitt Streets and donated it to the Settlement for building a new theater. The Neighborhood Playhouse opened in 1915. By 1920, the theater employed professional actors, and it was known for its experimental productions and its revue "The Grand Street Follies." Theater designer Aline Bernstein served her apprenticeship there from 1915 to 1924 designing costumes and stage sets.The Playhouse closed in 1927, but the company continued to produce plays on Broadway under the management of Helen F. Ingersoll. In 1928, with Rita Wallach Morganthau, the Lewisohns established the Neighborhood Playhouse School of the Theatre at East 54th Street, where it became an actor training school and students were offered a two-year program formal drama and dance training to become professionals.
During their years of running the school theatre and producing plays, a body of knowledge was formed about acting, theater production, and costume, set and stage design. In 1937, Irene Lewisohn opened a home for this library, the Museum of Costume Art, on Fifth Avenue. Aline Bernstein served as the first President and Polaire Weissman as its first executive director. After Irene Lewisohn's death in 1944, Lord & Taylor president Dorothy Shaver worked to bring the collection to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Shaver believed that this would strengthen the American fashion industry and raised $350,000 from New York garment manufacturers to finance the transaction. The Costume Art museum became part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1946, becoming The Costume Institute but was independently run until 1959 when it became a curatorial department in the museum. The Met is now home to the Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library.
Since 1946, with help from the fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert, the institute has hosted the annual Met Gala to raise money for operating expenses.
In 2009, the American Costume Collection of the Brooklyn Museum was transferred to the Costume Institute, as The Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The high costs of maintaining and displaying the collection was the main impetus for the move, which followed years of close collaboration between the two organizations. The collection of the Brooklyn museum is older, having been formed from private donations by former New York high society personalities, beginning with the donation in 1903 of an 1892 cream colored crepe dress worn by Kate Mallory Williams at her graduation from Brooklyn Heights Seminary. Prior to the move, 23,500 objects from the Brooklyn collection were digitized and these images are now shared by both organizations. At the time of the acquisition, the Met costume collection consisted of 31,000 objects from the 17th-century onwards. The opening exhibition in 2014 featured work by British-born designer Charles James, an important figure in New York fashion of the 1940s and 1950s and whose work is in the Brooklyn collection.
On September 8, 2015, it was announced that Harold Koda would be stepping down from his position as Curator in Charge of the Costume Institute. Andrew Bolton, who had joined the Costume Institute in 2002 as associate curator and was made curator in 2006, was announced as his replacement.
In May 2017, the Costume Institute featured an exhibition featuring the works of Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. The exhibit was the Costume Institute's first exhibition focusing on a living designer since Yves Saint Laurent in 1983.
List of exhibitions
1971–1972: Fashion Plate 1972–1973: Untailored Garments 1973–1974: The World of Balenciaga 1974–1975: Romantic and Glamorous Hollywood Design 1975–1976: American Women of Style 1976–1977: The Glory of Russian Costume 1977–1978: Vanity Fair: A Treasure Trove 1978–1979: Diaghilev: Costumes and Designs of the Ballets Russes 1979–1980: Fashions of the Habsburg Era: Austria-Hungary 1980–1981: The Manchu Dragon: Costumes of China, the Chi'ng Dynasty 1981–1982: The Eighteenth-Century Woman 1982–1983: Le Belle Époque 1983–1984: Yves Saint Laurent: 25 Years of Design 1984–1985: Man and the Horse 1985–1986: Costumes of Royal India 1986–1987: Dance 1987–1988: In Style: Celebrating Fifty Years of the Costume Institute 1988–1989: 1989–1990: The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire, 1789–1815 1990–1991: Théâtre de la Mode – Fashion Dolls: The Survival of Haute Couture 1991–1992: Gala held, but no concurrent costume exhibition1992–1993: Fashion and History: A Dialogue 1993–1994: Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style 1994–1995: Orientalism: Visions of the East in western dress 1995–1996: Haute Couture 1996–1997: Christian Dior 1997–1998: Gianni Versace 1998–1999: Cubism and Fashion 1999–2000: Rock Style 2000–2001: No costume exhibition presented2001: Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years 2001–2002: No costume exhibition gala presented2003: Goddess: The Classical Mode 2004: Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the 18th Century 2005: The House of Chanel 2005–2006: Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris Barrel Apfel Collection- 2006: AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion 2007: Poiret: King of Fashion 2008: Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy 2009: The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion 2010: American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity 2011: Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 2012: Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations 2013: Punk: Chaos to Couture 2014: Charles James: Beyond Fashion 2014–2015: Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire 2015: China: Through the Looking Glass• 2015–2016: Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style 2016: Manus x Machina: Fashion In An Age Of Technology
- 2016–2017: Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion 2017: Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between 2018: Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination 2019: Camp: Notes on Fashion 2020: About Time: Fashion and Duration 2021–2022 In America: A Lexicon of Fashion
- 2022 In America: An Anthology of Fashion
- 2023 Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty
- 2024 Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion
- 2025 ''Superfine: Tailoring Black Style''